Here's some discussion and pics on how I've been preparing the frame
Here are a number of tips on how to and more precisely how NOT to build a
truck.
1. Figure out what you'd like. Spend a lot of
time figuring out what you would like for a truck, some things to consider:
Don't get too far down this road without starting Step 2 though.
General Body Style:This is single biggest starting
point as there are a number of different ERAs of trucks including 55-59
60-66, 67-72, 73-87, 88-98, 99 to current. Some advantages and disadvantages
of each of the eras are
60-66:These trucks have many interchangeable parts,
however 60-63 has a different windshield design and dash design than 64-66.
64-66:These trucks are more readily available
67-72 these trucks are nearly interchangeable with the
most notable difference being the front clip for 67 and 68. These
trucks are nearly all widely available particularly down south.
73-87 There are many different front clips for these,
however nearly all of the beds are the same. Parts for these are
generally very cheap particularly for the newer years. Parts are
everywhere for these
2WD or 4WD:Deciding this early in the process will
dictate what you are looking for in your vehicle and what you can pass up.
Quality Of The Finished Project: This is the single
largest factor in the outcome of your vehicle. The nicer it becomes,
the more money it will cost. Deciding this upfront will help provide
clarity in the processes you need to look at. For instance if you are
going for a show truck, you may want to fabricate an entirely new frame, box
it, shave any holes, and go as far as doing body prep type work on it (bondo
on the welds, two stage paint). On the waaay other end of the spectrum
if you're a Friday night joe that just wants something that looks good in
front of the bar, you may be happy with no frame prep at all, or coating the
frame with something like POR 15. Also, deciding on the quality
upfront will help you weed out what parts you want to purchase new and what
parts you could stand to use as used parts.
Contemporary Show Truck: This is the easiest one to start looking for a
vehicle for. Get a frame of your choice and a cab. Be ready to spend a
lot of cash, easily a minimum of $20,000, but more likely $40,000.
Interior, dash, drivetrain, axles, springs, tires, wheels, some sheet metal
are of no importance in a starter vehicle as if you are building this
caliber of truck, you will be buying these new anyway. Many of the
models have many of these parts for sale as new reproductions, however there
are some areas to watch out for, particularly fleetside beds. Prior to
73, you can only get stepside bedsides, and 67(w/turn signals)-72 short
beds. Fleetside long beds are not available in metal for 72 and older
trucks, nor are 66 and older fleetside short boxes. HOWEVER one
exception to this is that if you are ok with using a fiberglass bed, they
can be purchased from U.S. Body .
Vintage Numbers Matching Truck:First off, I have to say you're crazy to even
attempt building a truck like this. If this is what you're after, find
one... Buy it... These will take you years to build unless you have a great
starter truck
Local Show winner:
Daily Driver: These are probably what most people think of when they do a
"restoration". The quality of a truck like this can be just about
anything you'd like it. Me for instance, I'm pure nuts... when I look
at the frame, I think I need to tear it apart to get all of the rivets
replaced and still go through every nut and bolt on the rest of the vehicle.
Others may take a look at a vehicle, put new paint on it, new interior, and
call it done.
Friday Night Looker: New paint and wheels, loud radio. Done.
Toolin Around Truck I have one of these trucks, it's a 65 3/4 ton long bed.
These are the easist to do, as the concept here is to buy whatever you like,
then stick a couple of bucks in it when you feel like it. These are
the most carefree types of truck builds and usually the easiest. DO
NOT start with a Toolin Around Truck and expect to get a Show Truck
out of it, as you will waste a lot of money in the process doing things
multiple times and in multiple ways
Drivetrain Rating: This is improtant on the front end
as different ratings and uses WILL effect the bottom line of your truck
particularly for 4WD models. 1/2 Ton models (C10, K10) will be
cheaper, easier to find and easier to fix, I would strongly recommend going
with a 1/2 ton unless you have a specific reason to go with something
heavier. If you plan on using the truck for rock crawling or a lot of
off roading be prepared to spend a lot of cash on the drivetrain. Dana
60 axles are a favorite of rock crawlers and offroaders but they don't come
cheap
Automatic or Manual:
Gadgets and Whisbombs This somewhat important in the
early stages of the project as generally can assign a black box of funds to
cover a level of interior/exterior however once you try to start purchasing
parts this is one area to keep bright on the radar.
General Color and Paint This will be particularly
important if you plan to use any of the existing interior parts. If so, you
should decide early so you can include those parameters when you are looking
for a starter vehicle and parts vehicles. Likely with ANY project, you
will be doing a new paint job, so exterior color is of little importance at
this point
Specific Years acceptable
2. Budget Budget Budget: Make a list of the big and middle ticket items. You
will be thoroughly amazed how fast things add up. Once you have done your
first iteration on what you'd like and your first budget, look at the bottom
line and formulate a plan as to how to finance your truck. If you're
well off, maybe you can do it out of your pocket. If your a high schooler,
don't plan on anything nicer than a Friday Night Looker. NOTHING will
stop a project faster than lack of cash to do it. In your estimate,
don't forget to add money for labor for services that you are going to have
done. For instance, right now, my mind set for most of the different
types is to do the chassis, drivetrain, sheet metal work, interior, and
final assembly myself, however letting someone else do the body and paint
work. Doing the body and paint work is easily the most tedious part of the
project and can be probably the single biggest outside expenditure, as you
can easily spend $5,000 on body and paint work.
Bed: A decent bed can range from $200-1000 depending on condition. If
you go with a new fiberglass one, it can cost you $3500 plus you have to
pick it up in Florida.
Cab: Oddly enough for just about any truck you should be able to get a cab
with frame off of ebay for $1000 or less. Just keep watching.
Doors: Many years have new doors availble but can be pricey up to $500 each.
Windows: Many of the windshields and back windows can be purchased for $300
or less each
Seats: Im not aware of any third party new producers, so you will have to
get a set and re-skin them however you'd like. This will start at
about $200 depending on how you do it.
Column: I've been watching these things like a hawk for 67-72s on ebay.
The cheapest you will get a tilt auto column is $175 w/shipping, and that
will be in poor condition. If you are planning a nicer truck, I would
reserve about $500 for a column and wheel.
Interior:
Dash
Engine
Front Clip
Bumpers
Tranny
Transfer Case
Axles
Brakes
Driveshafts
Wheels and Tires
Alot a lump sum of cash for small stuff keeping in mind even the small stuff
is spendy new, and least a few grand.
3. Select a starter vehicle This is where the fun starts. Rule
numero uno... EBAY EBAY EBAY you can find anything on ebay generally for a
good price, you just have to know how to look and what to look for. DO
NOT buy the first thing you see. Be patient grasshopper, for Chevy
trucks you WILL have multiple opportunities to purchase your parts. If
you are looking to build a more vintage or original truck, obviously, it
will be better for you to start with a vehicle that has more of the gadgets
and whisbombs you're looking for. One major tip, don't buy a 1/2 ton
expecting to convert it to 3/4 ton. Don't buy a 2WD expecting to
conver it to 4WD. Pretty much the same can be said for trannies and
transfer cases, but those are a bit easier. If you're going to change
out the tranny, it might not be a terrible thing to start with a manual. If
all else fails, contact me! I will be more than glad to help spend your
money!
At this point, I would suggest purchasing all of your "major" components
including sheet metal.
4. Acquire donor parts
5. Build Strategy. ONE AREA AT A TIME. Do NOT try to tackle all of it at
once, you will be overwhelmed and feel very disheartened. My suggestion is
to start by
Mock up the engine and tranny in the frame while the body is still on, if
you plan to do any tranny or transfer case changeouts. If your'e going
with a stock setup this step can be omitted.
Once you have the driveline mocked up, do any and all sheet metal work you
can, particularly jambing doors and such. Once this is done, the
vehicle can be torn apart as far as you'd like it to strip and re-build.
5. Begin Building.
6. Final Assembly
7. Buy me a beer
